Putu runs this one backwards to everybody else. You leave Sanur at 06:30 and reach Tukad Cepung by 08:15 — the window when sunlight drops through the gap in the cave roof and lands on the falls. An hour later the light is gone and the cave is full.
Then north to Tegallalang. The tour buses arrive at eleven and leave by two, so you have lunch at a warung above the valley while it is busy and walk the terraces at three, when the light is long and the paths are quiet.
There is some scrambling at Tukad Cepung — a short walk through ankle-deep river water and over wet rock. Wear something with grip.
Free pickup at your Sanur or Denpasar hotel, 06:30
Wayan and The team arranged everything so well and made us feel very comfortable throughout the journey. He always will send quick response and clear doubts.
Going to Tukad Cepung first thing and Tegallalang late is the correct order and nobody else seems to do it. We had the terraces almost to ourselves.
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